Why Is My Dryer Squeaking?

If your dryer squeaks every time you turn it on, you’re not alone. That high-pitched noise can be a real nuisance, but it’s also a sign that something isn’t quite right.
Ignoring the squeak won’t make it go away—in fact, it could lead to bigger problems down the road.
The good news? You can diagnose and fix many of these issues yourself. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the most common causes of a squeaky dryer and show you how to solve them.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
- Squeaking in dryers often results from worn-out drum rollers, damaged idler pulleys, faulty drum glides or bearings, a loose dryer belt, or a failing drive motor. Many of these issues can be resolved with DIY fixes, including inspecting and replacing the affected parts.
- While many squeaky dryer issues can be handled at home, more complex repairs, such as replacing the drive motor, may require professional assistance to ensure safety and effectiveness.
- Regular cleaning of the lint screen and vent, annual inspections of key components, and avoiding overloading the drum can help prevent future squeaks and extend the life of your dryer.
Common Causes of a Squeaky Dryer
Worn-Out Drum Rollers
The drum rollers support the dryer drum as it spins. Over time, these rollers can wear out, causing them to squeak. If you hear a squeak that gets louder with the drum’s rotation, the drum rollers are likely the culprit.
Here’s a DIY repair video that shows how to safely access, check and replace drum rollers in your clothes dryer:
- Unplug the dryer. If you have a gas dryer, shut off the gas supply.
- Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
- Pull the lint screen out of the housing in the top panel of the dryer. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that secure the lint screen housing to the top panel. To release the clips that lock the top of the dryer in place, push a putty knife under the lid near the left and right edges of the front of the dryer. Lift the top and prop it securely against the wall behind the dryer.
- Use a slot screwdriver to release the locking tab on the wire harness plug for the door switch. Disconnect the wire harness. Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the front panel mounting screws from the inside of the dryer. Pull the front panel forward slightly, and then lift and unhook it from the 2 bottom hangers. Pull the front panel off of the dryer and set it aside.
- Note the configuration of the belt on the idler pulley and the motor pulley before removing it—take a digital picture of it so you know how to reinstall it. Push the idler pulley to the right to release tension on the drive belt. Pull the drive belt off of the idler pulley and the motor pulley. Pull the drum out of the dryer and set it aside.
Spin the drum support rollers by hand. If a roller doesn’t rotate smoothly and squeaks when you spin it, replace that support roller.
Damaged Idler Pulley
The idler pulley keeps tension on the dryer belt. When the pulley’s bearing wears out, it creates a loud squealing noise that can escalate with continued use.
Unplug the dryer and access the idler pulley by removing the dryer’s front panel. Manually spin the pulley. A noisy or wobbly pulley needs replacing.
Here’s a YouTube video that shows how to access and replace the idler pulley in a common type of dryer:
Glides or Drum Bearings
Dryer drum glides or bearings help the drum spin smoothly. When these components wear out, the metal-to-metal contact can cause a grinding, screeching, squealing or squeaking noise.
Inspect the edges of the drum where it contacts the front panel. If the glides or bearings appear worn or damaged, replace them as shown in this DIY repair video:
Dryer Belt Issues
A loose or fraying dryer belt can also make your dryer squeak. The belt wraps around the drum and motor, helping the drum rotate. Over time, the drive belt can wear out, stretch, fray or crack, leading to noise.
Unplug the dryer and lift the top panel to inspect the belt for signs of wear. Replace the belt if it looks frayed, worn or damaged.
Here’s a video that shows how to replace the dryer drive belt in a common type of clothes dryer:
Faulty Drive Motor
Although less common, a squeaky motor could be the root of the problem. Dryer motors have internal bearings that can wear out over time and begin to squeak or squeal. Although the dryer will typically keep running for several weeks with a worn bearing, eventually motor will lock up or overheat and quit running because of the worn out bearing.
If you didn’t find the cause of the squealing noise by checking the above components and the sound is coming from the drive motor, you’ll likely need to replace the motor.
Replacing the drive motor is more complicated than the other repairs described above. The video below shows how to replace the motor but if you’re not confident that you can replace that part on your own, schedule dryer repair service and we’ll send a Sears Home Services technician to your home to replace the motor.
How to replace a dryer drive motor:
When to Call a Professional
If you’ve inspected all the components and the squeak persists, it might be time to call in a professional. Complex issues, such as a motor replacement or electrical problem can sometimes require expertise beyond a typical DIY fix in some dryers.
Schedule dryer service when you’re not completely confident that you can safely fix a squeaking noise in your dryer on your own.
Expert Tips to Prevent Future Dryer Squeaks
Clean Your Dryer Regularly
Lint buildup can strain components, so vacuum the vent and drum area at least once a month.
Clean the lint screen before starting every load to make sure air flows through the dryer efficiently.
Inspect Dryer Parts Annually
Check the belt, rollers, and pulley each year for signs of wear.
To make sure the dryer runs smoothly and efficiently, schedule professional dryer maintenance and cleaning service every year. We’ll send a Sears Home Services technician to you home to inspect, clean and maintain the dryer for you.
Don’t Overload the Drum
Heavy loads can accelerate wear and tear on internal components and cause squeaking.
Follow the guidelines in your owner’s manual for properly loading the dryer.
Addressing a squeaky dryer isn’t just about restoring peace and quiet—it’s about keeping your appliance in good working order.
By tackling the noise issue quickly and taking steps to prevent the problem from recurring, you’ll save money on costly repairs and extend the life of your clothes dryer.
Frequently Asked Questions
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Glossary Terms
A dryer filter, commonly known as a lint filter, is a component of a clothes dryer that captures lint and other debris from clothes during the drying process, preventing them from clogging the dryer vent.
A dryer pedestal is a platform that elevates a dryer off the ground, making it easier to load and unload laundry while also providing additional storage space in some models.
A dryer rack is an accessory for clothes dryers that provides a stationary platform to dry items without tumbling, ideal for delicate or bulky items, or shoes that might be damaged by the usual drying cycle.
A dryer vent is a duct that channels hot air, lint, and moisture from a clothes dryer to the outside of a home, ensuring safe operation and reducing the risk of fire.
Common Repair Dryer Symptoms
The most common reasons your Maytag dryer has no heat are an open heating element, failed thermal cut-off fuse or a faulty thermal fuse.
The most common reasons your Samsung dryer has no heat are an open heating element, failed thermal cut-off fuse or a faulty thermal fuse.
The most common reasons your Electrolux dryer display is not working are a defective electronic control board, defective power supply board or an inoperative user interface control.
The most common reasons your KitchenAid dryer is not heating are an open heating element, failed thermal cut-off fuse or a faulty thermal fuse.
The most common reasons your KitchenAid dryer has no heat are an open heating element, failed thermal cut-off fuse or a faulty thermal fuse.
The most common reasons your Maytag dryer is not heating are an open heating element, failed thermal cut-off fuse or a faulty thermal fuse.