Why the Dryer Is Not Heating

Electric Dryer Won’t Heat Troubleshooting Video

The video below (and the written description of the steps in the video) describe a proven method of diagnosing and fixing a common electric dryer that won’t heat. You may be able to fix your dryer heating problem by following these steps. If you get to a point where you’re not certain that you can safely complete the steps shown in the video and described below, have a dryer repair technician fix the heating failure.

This video shows troubleshooting tips on a common type of Kenmore dryer not heating. These tips can also help you troubleshoot common Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, Frigidaire and GE electric dryers that aren't heating.

Check the Electrical Power Supply to the Dryer

The first step is to check to see if the dryer is getting the correct amount of power. You may think the dryer is getting enough power if the motor runs, but the heating element needs 240 volts of electricity to heat. The motor will run even if the dryer is only getting 120 volts of power.

Check your power cord to make sure it’s not damaged. Then, reset your house circuit breaker to make sure it’s not tripped. Set your dryer to a timed dry, high-heat cycle and see if it heats up after resetting the breakers.

If the dryer is still not heating, check the components on the control circuit. Checking continuity as shown in the video using a multimeter will allow you to test them all at once along with the wiring.

First, unplug the dryer. For safety, always disconnect power before checking continuity. Remove the back panel from the dryer, then remove the back of the control panel. Unplug the large red wire from terminal "A" on the timer. Set the multimeter to read ohms of resistance.

Measure resistance between the large red wire on the timer and the heating element terminal where the large red wire is connected. If you measure near 15 ohms of resistance through this circuit, then you know that the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse are all okay. You can skip ahead to learn how to check out your timer.

Test the Heating Element

If you measured no electrical continuity through the control circuit, check the heating element. Place your meter leads on the heating element terminals. You should measure near 15 ohms of resistance through the heating element.

If you measured no continuity, then the heating element is broken. Replace the heating element.

If you measured near 15 ohms of resistance, then the heating element is good.

Check the High-Limit Thermostat

Test the high-limit thermostat next. Place one meter lead on each terminal of the high-limit thermostat. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measured no continuity, then replace the high-limit thermostat.

Test the Operating Thermostat

If your high-limit thermostat is okay, check the operating thermostat. Place one meter lead on the red wire and the other meter lead on the red-white wire. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the operating thermostat. If you measured no continuity, replace the operating thermostat.

Check for a Blown Thermal Cut-Off Fuse

If your operating thermostat is good, check the thermal cut-off fuse. Place one meter lead on the red-white wire and the other on the red wire. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measured no continuity, you’ll need to replace the thermal cut-off fuse.

Test the Control Timer

If the thermal cut-off fuse is good, check the control timer. With the dryer power cord still unplugged, turn the timer to timed dry, high heat. Place one meter lead on terminal "A" with the red wire and the other on terminal "C" with the black wire. If you measured no continuity, then the timer is broken. Replace the bad timer.

Other Possible Problems

If you’ve made it through all these checks and you still haven’t found your problem, you could have a defective motor centrifugal switch, a bad power cord or a failed circuit breaker. You'll need to get a dryer repair technician to check these for you.

How to Fix a Gas Dryer That Won't Heat Video

This video shows how to troubleshoot a common gas dryer that won’t heat. You may be able to fix a gas dryer heating problem by following these steps. If you get to a point where you’re not certain that you can safely complete the steps shown in the video and described below, have a dryer repair technician fix the heating failure.

This video shows troubleshooting tips on a common Kenmore dryer not heating. These tips can also help you troubleshoot common Whirlpool, Amana, Maytag, Frigidaire and GE gas dryers that aren't heating.

Check the Gas Supply, Burner, Igniter and Gas Valve Coils

First, make sure your gas supply line is connected and the cut-off valve is open. If the gas supply is fine, check the burner igniter next. Remove the burner sight plug from the lower left corner of the front panel. Set the timer control for a timed dry, high heat cycle and start the dryer.

Peek through that hole to see if the igniter is glowing. If the igniter glows but the burner doesn’t light, then at least you know all the components in the control circuit are getting power. Watch the igniter for several minutes to see if it stays lit or fades off. The igniter should fade off to divert electric current through the gas valve coils to light the burner when the flame sensor detects that the igniter is hot enough.

When the flame sensor trips, electric current flows through the gas valve coils and the burner ignites. If the igniter glows constantly for 5 minutes, you'll need to replace the flame sensor because it isn't shutting off the igniter to divert current through the gas valve coils.

If instead, the glow faded away after a couple of minutes, you’ll probably need to replace your gas valve coils to fix the heating failure.

Check the Control Circuit

Now, on the other hand, if the igniter didn’t glow at all, we’ll need to check the components in the control circuit. Checking continuity with a multimeter will allow us to test them all at once. First, unplug the dryer.

For safety, always disconnect electrical power going to the dryer before checking continuity.

Remove the back panel from the dryer, then remove the back of the control panel. Pull the wire harness plug with red, black and blue wires off the timer and the light blue wire from the thermal fuse. Set the multimeter to read ohms of resistance and measure continuity between the red wire and the blue spade on the thermal fuse.

If you read near 0 ohms, you know that the high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat, thermal cut-off fuse and the thermal fuse are all okay. You can skip ahead to learn how to check your timer.

Test the High-Limit Thermostat

If you measured no electrical continuity through the control circuit, check the high-limit thermostat next. Place one meter lead on each of the high-limit thermostat terminals. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance.

If you measured no continuity, then replace the high-limit thermostat.

Check the Operating Thermostat

If your high-limit thermostat has continuity, check the operating thermostat. Place one meter lead on the red wire and the other on the red and white wire. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measure no continuity, then the operating thermostat is defective. Replace it.

Test the Thermal Cut-Off Fuse

If your operating thermostat is okay, test the thermal cut-off fuse. Put one meter lead on the red-white wire and the other on the red wire. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measured no continuity, then replace the thermal cut-off fuse.

Check for a Blown Thermal Fuse

If your thermal cut-off fuse is okay, then we’ll move on to test the thermal fuse. Put one meter lead on the red wire and the other meter lead on the light blue wire. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measured no continuity, replace the thermal fuse.

Here’s something to keep in mind. More often than not, if your dryer blew a thermal fuse, it’s because your exhaust vent is clogged with lint. Before you hook your dryer back up, check your exhaust vent system from the back of the dryer all the way to the outside of your home. Clean the vent duct system out with a lint brush if you find clogs.

Test the Timer

If all those components were okay, check the timer. With the dryer power cord still unplugged, turn the timer to timed dry, high heat. Place one meter lead on terminal "A" with the red wire and the other on terminal "C" with the black wire. If you measure near 0 ohms, then the timer is okay. If you measure no continuity, then the timer contacts are bad. Replace the defective timer.

Check the Igniter

If you still haven’t found the problem, then check the igniter for continuity.

To access the igniter, follow these steps:

1. Shut off the gas supply and remove the front panel to access the burner components.
2. Pull out the lint screen. Remove the screws that secure the lint screen housing to the top panel.
3. Release the clips and raise the top panel. Unplug the door switch from the wire harness.
4. Remove the two screws securing the front panel to the cabinet. Tilt the front panel up and lift it out the way.
5. Note the configuration of the belt on the idler pulley and the motor pulley before removing it. Push the idler pulley to the right to release tension on the drive belt. Pull the drive belt off the idler pulley and the motor pulley.
6. Pull the drum out of the dryer and set it aside.

Unplug the wire harness from the igniter.

Place one meter lead on each terminal of the igniter. You should measure some resistance reading between 4 and 400 ohms through the igniter. If the igniter's open, an “OL” on the meter, replace it.

Test the Flame Sensor

If the igniter is okay, check the flame sensor next. Remove one of the wires from the flame sensor. Place one meter lead on each terminal of the flame sensor. You should measure near 0 ohms of the resistance through the flame sensor. If the flame sensor's open, replace it.

If you made it all the way though and you still haven’t found out why your gas dryer is not getting hot, you could have a defective motor centrifugal switch or a wiring failure in the heating circuit. Schedule a dryer repair technician to diagnose and repair those types of failures.

The dryer repair videos and troubleshooting tips have helped thousands of DIY’ers safely fix their own dryers that are not heating. If you have a different type of dryer than the common ones shown in this video or you’re unable to find and fix the heating problem on your own, schedule service. We’re confident that our Sears Home Services technician can visit your home and quickly fix the dryer heating problem using techniques similar to the ones shown in these videos.